Eating through Athens: Markets and mezze to modern Greek spots
Down in the basement of Diporto time stalled some time around 1955. Wine barrels line the walls of the centenarian taverna where a brusque, elderly gentleman named Mitsos is flipping small fish on a tiny charcoal grill. Large time-worn steel pots bubble away on the stove. It’s said to be the oldest working-class spot near […]
Malpica’s daily octopus auction, on Galicia’s Costa da Morte
One by one a young fisherman is slapping octopuses on a giant scale. He’s tallying up the day’s catch: some 37 boxes of polbo (as it’s known in Galician) weighing nearly 300kg. It’s a fairly quiet sunny Monday in November with just a dozen or so people milling around the Lonja de Malpica, the fishing […]
Exploring Hvar & Vis Islands in Croatia
I love Portugal but one of its great faults is the icy temperatures of the Atlantic Ocean. This year I was craving to swim in warm ocean water. Pair that desire with an overdue need to see cousins in Croatia and off I went. From the moment I landed in Split I was spoilt with […]