Devil on the loose: 7 traditional pagan carnivals to attend in Portugal

Caretos de Podence running through the streets during the Entrudo do Chocalheiro

The sound of jangling cowbells on a crisp winter evening is forever etched in my memory. The distinct clanging raises my heartbeat, taking me back to a few dark and wild nights in the remote north-west of Portugal, when I was traipsing about Podence trying to avoid encounters with the local caretos.  Every February the […]

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