Where to watch the sunset in Lisbon
People who visit Lisbon always talk about the light. Maybe it’s the way it bounces off glazed tiles, casting an intangible, indescribable and soft brightness across the streets in the morning hours. While other cities have dark tones and stone that absorb the light, Lisbon drinks it up and bounces it back. Those same façades […]
50+ essential tips (from a local) for your first time in Portugal
Beneath Portugal’s postcard views and limitless pastel de nata access is a country rich in traditions, cultural quirks and little things that might catch first-time visitors off guard. I’ve called Portugal home since 2018, and through my blog and 1-on-1 video calls I help travellers navigate everything from restaurant etiquette to logistics. I’ve created this […]
48 hours in Braga: best things to do in Portugal’s third city
As overtourism has etched away parts of the soul and culture of Lisbon and Porto, Braga remains at its core a traditional Portuguese city. It’s a lively, gorgeous destination with plenty of history, baroque architecture, contemporary culture and hearty cuisine. Braga’s famous Arco da Porta Nova, one of the historic gates to the city, was […]
Best river cruises in the Douro Valley
See the dramatic landscape of the Douro Valley shift as you float away from the riverbank. While standing at a high-altitude viewpoint looking down at the terraced slopes is jaw-dropping, drifting along the Douro River looking up at those terraces is a slow, peaceful experience – and a non-negotiable part of any northern Portugal or […]
How to get to the Douro Valley: train, boat or car?
How you travel to the Douro Valley deeply changes your experience of the gorgeous wine region. Whether you curve around the steep ridges by car, trace the water’s edge on the historic Linha do Douro train line, or navigate massive river locks on a scenic day cruise from Porto, each mode of transport unlocks a […]
Best things to do in Estremoz: Portugal’s white marble city
The first time I visited Estremoz it was bucketing rain. I was trying not to slip on the tessellated marble pavement on the short walk between the car and the tasca. We were on our way from Lisbon to Seville for the Feria de Abril, and Estremoz was the perfect midway point to stop, stretch […]
Portugal road trip: 3-Day Douro Valley self-drive itinerary
When visitors tick off the world’s oldest demarcated wine region on a rushed, 12-hour day trip from Porto, they miss the true magic of the Douro Valley. The famous wine region reveals its true self when the tour buses leave. It’s the quiet mornings sipping coffee, looking out over misty terraces, the peace and calm […]
The Independent Guide to the Douro Valley: Road trip logistics, best things to do & where to stay
Portugal’s most famous wine region, the Douro Valley, is a dramatic collaboration between nature and man. Here, hand-carved vine terraces snake along steep hills, stretching from the winding Douro River towards the clouds like staircases for giants. Every hairpin turn reveals a new horizon of vines and more vines, broken only by the solitary silhouette […]
Best boat tours in Porto (that I’ve done!): Six Bridge Cruise Vs Sailboats
There’s nothing quite like seeing a new city from the water, and the Douro River is Porto’s lifeblood. Whether you’re looking for a quick budget-friendly zip under the bridges or a slow-paced afternoon with a glass of Port in hand, you’ll find a boat tour in Porto for every price point and vibe. I’ve visited […]
Where to stay in Porto: Best neighbourhoods & hotels
Porto, the Invicta City (unvanquished), is a historic hash of granite streets and tall skinny buildings that lead down to the winding Douro River. While Lisbon is golden and sun-drenched, Porto is more moody and romantic. It’s this juxtaposed vibe that has drawn me back more than a dozen times since I moved to Portugal […]
Where to stay in Coimbra: Best neighbourhoods & hotels
Portugal’s medieval capital and the heart of its academia is often treated as a quick pitstop by visitors en route from Lisbon to Porto. But with so much to see, to truly get a feel for the small university city, I believe you need to stay overnight. Coimbra buzzes with a youthful, student energy and […]
Where to eat in Coimbra
At the heart of Central Portugal lies Coimbra, an ancient city with a young student heart. To eat here is to navigate that same contrast. One moment you could be seated in a medieval alleyway peeling meat off a tray of pig bones, and the next sipping Bairrada sparkling wines on a rooftop overlooking the […]