Local’s guide to Belém, Lisbon: Best things to do with a half-day or more
Belém is a must-visit riverfront neighborhood rich in monuments, museums, and manicured parklands. It was from these shores, where the Tagus River kisses the Atlantic Ocean, that many ships including explorer Vasco da Gama’s fleet in 1497, left to map the world during Portugal’s powerful Age of Discoveries. History is just one reason why this […]
Where to eat in Belém: the best restaurants, snacks and bars
Belém might be packed with tourists, but finding a good spot to eat doesn’t have to feel like a scavenger hunt. I live close by and have spent plenty of time dining in Belém, so consider this your Belém food guide to dodge the tourist traps and actually eat well – whether you’re grabbing a […]
Malpica’s daily octopus auction, on Galicia’s Costa da Morte
One by one a young fisherman is slapping octopuses on a giant scale. He’s tallying up the day’s catch: some 37 boxes of polbo (as it’s known in Galician) weighing nearly 300kg. It’s a fairly quiet sunny Monday in November with just a dozen or so people milling around the Lonja de Malpica, the fishing […]
9 places to visit in Portugal this spring
Spring can be the best time to visit Portugal, but it’s not all sunshine all the time. While there’s optimism in the air as the country defrosts and the warmth of the sun gains strength, there’s also a constant risk of April showers and crisp days where a thick coat is still necessary. Despite this, […]
Just Flow: What to expect at this Portugal yoga and wellness retreat
A horrified look crossed our faces when, on the third day, we were asked to hand over our phones for 24 hours. These little black bricks are basically part of us. How could we function, stay connected – or know when to wake up? At 6.15am the next day the beating hum of a primal […]
Where to eat in Santiago de Compostela: Best restaurants and tapas bars
I fell hard for this small stone city stuck in time, with a bar and restaurant scene fed by some of the best seafood Spain has to offer. It’s a rare thing to say but Santiago de Compostela exceeded my expectations in every way. I arrived in Galicia pretty pumped to eat my way across […]
Best boat tours in Lisbon
It’s magic seeing the skyline of Lisbon from the water. Suddenly the geography – all the hills, viewpoints, and landmarks – falls into place. Zipping about on the Tagus River aboard a Lisbon boat trip is even better at sunset. A golden glow adds extra sparkle to Lisbon’s monuments as you cruise beneath the towering […]
Portugal & Spain Road Trip: Where to stop between Lisbon and Seville
Look at a map of Portugal and you’ll see that beautiful Seville is just over the border…. So if you’re visiting Lisbon or the Algarve, why not plan a road trip and drive to the Spanish city too? While on paper they seem close, the drive between Lisbon and Seville takes 4-5 hours. But if […]
Best Porto wine tasting tours (that I’ve done) & a list of port wine cellars
If you’re visiting Porto and have even the faintest interest in wine (or like to learn about how things are made), then you must visit a port wine house for a tasting tour. Across the Douro River from Porto lie almost two dozen historic port wine cellars and warehouses, where the humid conditions close to […]
How to spend 48 hours in Évora
Évora is an incredible small city where you can soak up history, dive into local gastronomy, or just slow down and enjoy the Alentejo’s famously relaxed pace. The UNESCO-listed centre is a time capsule of Roman, Moorish, and medieval influences, yet Évora has an energetic and youthful vibe. I live in Lisbon and have visited […]
I did this unique Moorish tile-painting workshop in Sintra
There are a dozen or so tile-painting workshops you can join in and around Lisbon, but I’ve only found one in Portugal focused on Hispanic-Moorish techniques. Aldina’s beautiful creative studio is in Sintra, close to Lisbon, and I joined her tile-painting workshop a few months ago. In this workshop, not only did we paint a […]
Guide to the best beaches in Lagos, Portugal
In the western Algarve, Lagos is my favourite small city to make my base – and around Lagos you’ll find some of the most spectacular beaches in the Algarve. If you’ve ever seen pictures of dramatic and rocky orange cliffs against the vibrant blue sea, then chances are they were taken around Lagos. I’m based […]