Besides the caminho, mainland Portugal’s most famous multi-day hike must be the gorgeous Costa Vicentina’s Fishermen’s Trail. The 226.5-km (140-mile) coastal trail stretches along the south-west coast of Portugal, almost always with the ocean in sight.
I’ve long been curious about hiking at least part of the trail, and spending a few nights in Porto Covo last summer was the perfect opportunity for a “taster” hike. Instead of embarking on the full trek, we opted for a one-day, sun-drenched, 10-km (6-mile) stretch from Praia de São Torpes back to town, hopping between some of Portugal’s most gorgeous hidden bays and stopping for a leisurely fish lunch.
If you’re looking for the most beautiful way to experience the Costa Vicentina in a single day, this is the itinerary and trail to follow – including the one logistical flip I’d make next time to beat the Alentejo heat.
| Trail Detail | What to Expect |
| Distance | 10km (approx. 6.2 miles) |
| Route | Praia de São Torpes to Porto Covo |
| Difficulty | Easy (flat, but sandy) |
| Time | 2h 40min (walking pace) or 5+ hours (the Olá Daniela pace with lunch, swims, sunbathing). |
| Trail markers | Look for the blue and green stripes. This signifies the Fishermen’s Trail (the Historical Way is Red and White). |
| Good to know | Very little shade |
Planning the hike: Logistics & transport
While the full Fishermen’s Trail is a multi-day commitment, this 10-km stretch might be the most accessible day hike along the entire Rota Vicentina – so long as you figure out transport to keep it one-way.
What we did (and what I’d change next time)
We took the bus from Porto Covo to São Torpes and hiked back. It sounds logical – starting at the official start point of the whole Fishermen’s Trail – but, if I were doing it again, I’d do the opposite.
Why? Well, the Olá Daniela version of this 10-km (6.2-mile) hike turns the walk into a full-day adventure, including a long lunch at a local fish shack, sunbathing and salty swims. The problem is that the beach restaurants are closer to São Torpes, so we did most of the hike in the blistering, summer afternoon sun.
If I did it again (which I totally would – a great day out!), then I’d start in Porto Covo and complete most of the hike in the fresh morning air. I’d reach the restaurant (likely Pedra da Casca) right at lunchtime, then read books on the sand, swim and hike the last few beaches until I reached the bus to take me back to Porto Covo.
Heat warning: There is zero shade on this trail. While the views of the turquoise bays are intoxicating, make sure you carry enough water and reapply your SPF.
Getting to the trailhead: Catch the bus
If you are visiting in July or August (like we did), look for the local council’s (CIMAL) brilliant initiative called the “Serviço de Praias” – a regular and free beach bus. I think the idea is to stop the congestion of cars at local beaches, but it’s also the perfect way to bounce to the start or end of the hike.
- Route: Look for the line connecting Porto Covo to Sines. It stops at all the major beaches along the way, including Praia de São Torpes.
- Pickup: In Porto Covo, the bus departs near the Mercado Municipal.
- Pro Tip: Even though it’s free, you usually need to register your email for a pass from the CIMAL website.
Outside of summer, there’s a regular bus by Rodoviaria do Alentejo that runs twice a day.
Taxi option: If you miss the bus or are visiting off-season, a taxi from Porto Covo to São Torpes costs roughly €15–€20.
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The Route: São Torpes to Porto Covo
The start of the Fishermen’s Trail
Stepping off the bus at São Torpes, we were greeted with the industrial silhouette of Sines in one direction and the wild, untouched beauty of the Atlantic in the other. From here, we headed south, following the signature blue and green trail markers of the Rota Vicentina’s Fishermen’s Trail.
Note, those two towers in my pictures have since been knocked down!
For the first part, we were probably off-piste, trekking along the sand and over some crazy slabs of rock, with swirling veins of slate in grey, ochre and terracotta tones. Those soon gave way to sharp, jagged black slate with white marble streaks, then a field of rocks shaped like dragon eggs. Our imaginations? Well fed.
Our seafood lunch stop
A short distance into the hike, we stopped for a lush swim at Praia de Vale Figueiros before hopping off the sand and into Pedra da Casca, a chill seafood restaurant. I travel around Portugal trying to find great restaurants to share with you, so why wouldn’t I use this hike as just another excuse? Soggy sandwiches, não obrigada! The rich and hearty seafood rice fuelled us up for the rest of the sandy trek. Our other choice was Magic Cactus, a more casual beachfront bar with light meals and toasted sandwiches.
From here, we found the proper trail with the blue and green markers revealing a well-trodden track.
Deserted beaches and bays
After passing Magic Cactus, the beach umbrellas and summer crowds faded into the distance. We were the only people crazy enough to trek on a late July day, but with the coast nearby, cooling off would never be an issue. The trail continued south, traversing solid cliffside paths and soft, deeper dunes. Walking on sand is a workout for the calves, even if the elevation remains relatively flat. And, while it’s more popular to walk with spring wildflowers between March and May, we found the dunes dotted with a variety of flowers and foliage (like wild rosemary) that made it interesting.
The beaches of Porto Covo
We barely saw another soul until we hit Praia da Samoqueira, easily one of Portugal’s most beautiful beaches. A wide strip of pale sand is backed by high granite cliffs and divided by granite stacks that watch over the beach – the ideal spot for another swim.
Porto Covo is a cute blue-and-white town and a popular holiday resort for Portuguese people. I hadn’t fully understood why until we had walked past every beach and bay north of town, from Praia da Samoqueira past Praia de Porto Covinho, Praia do Serro da Águia, Praia da Cerca Nova and Praia Grande de Porto Covo. It’s easy to see why local sun-lovers flock to this coastal town just two hours from Lisbon.
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Staying in Porto Covo
Porto Covo is a whitewashed, blue-trimmed working village that’s blossomed into a popular vacation town. It’s large enough to have things to do (and plenty of beautiful beaches to explore) yet sleepy enough to not feel like you’re missing out on anything at all. At its heart is the Praça Marquês de Pombal, a stunning, symmetrical square of white-and-blue cottages that feels like a cinematic slice of old Portugal. If you visit, you must reserve a table at Lamelas for elevated Alentejo cuisine at the hands of well-known young chef Ana Moura. Traditional spot Zé Inácio is also worth visiting for the octopus.
We stayed three nights on this trip at O Lugar, a minimalist Scandinavian-meets-Mediterranean guesthouse that offers breakfast. It’s a great central base – though I’d recommend avoiding the smallest room. It backed onto the local bakery, which seemed to be loading firewood and offloading bread at all hours of the day.
Check availability & prices
For something more lush, try Porto Covo Praia Hotel & SPA, or for a cool hostel, look at MUTE. We dropped into MUTE for a drink at the rooftop bar, and it has a great vibe.
What to pack for a coastal day hike
Packing for the full Fishermen’s Trail would be a huge challenge with the sand and sun exposure, which is another reason why chewing off a one-day trail is ideal. You don’t need to drag your toothbrush with you. Here’s what I suggest you pack.
Essential day pack checklist:
- Trail runners or hiking sandals: Skip the serious hiking boots – trainers or even hiking sandals (that you can easily shake sand out of) do the trick.
- 1.5 – 2 Litres of Water: There are no water points once you leave the beach bars or town.
- SPF 50 sunscreen: The Alentejo sun reflects off the white sand and the ocean – reapply often.
- Hat: A baseball cap is fine, but something with a widebrim would be better.
- Swimwear & lightweight towel: This is a hike-swim adventure after all.
- Portable power bank: Between checking your maps and taking 100 photos of the cliffs, your battery will drain faster than you think.
- First aid essentials: Specifically, some blister plasters and antiseptic wipes, just in case.
- Snacks: An apple or a pastry stolen from the breakfast buffet will do the trick.
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What’s next? Day 2 or the Classic Fishermen’s Trail (4-5 days)
If this 10-km taster hike left you craving more, the next logical step might be the Classic Fishermen’s Trail. This is a shorter 4-5 day version of the trail, taking you from Porto Covo to Odeceixe over 76km (47 miles).
The full-length Fishermen’s Trail takes 11-14 days, so if you don’t have the time, you can commit to this shorter version that highlights the best of the Alentejo Coast with its dramatic clifftops, hidden bays and charming villages.
If you have just one more available hiking day, you could walk the next leg from Porto Covo to Vila Nova de Milfontes, a 20km (12.5 mile) one-way trek that should take at least five hours.
Are you planning to hike this part of the Costa Vicentina’s Fishermen’s Trail? Let me know in the comments – I’d love to hear about your experience…
Keep reading…
- Portugal Road Trip: Where to stop between Lisbon and Lagos, Algarve
- The average person’s guide to A-list Comporta: Portugal’s luxe beach town
- Where to stay in the Algarve: Ultimate guide to choosing your base
- Where to eat in Évora: best restaurants, cafés & sweets
- 48 hours in Monsaraz
- 20 best things to do in Évora, the Alentejo capital
