Crater lakes, steaming hot springs, gushing waterfalls, tea plantations, wild dolphins and rolling green pastures make the Azorean island of São Miguel feel like it’s from another world. I’m based in Lisbon and I’ve visited this island, which some describe as a cross between Ireland, Hawaii and New Zealand, three times to uncover new gems and revisit old favourites for this four-day São Miguel itinerary.
São Miguel is the Azores’ largest and best-known island, and once you land at Ponta Delgada, you’ll see why it’s becoming so popular.
4-day São Miguel Island itinerary overview
I think four or five days is the perfect amount of time to chase adrenaline, soak in thermal pools, try local food and explore the landscapes. If you’re in a hurry, you could compress it into three very busy days – or better yet, have a real vacation on São Miguel Island and slow down the pace to 6-8 days.
Day 1
- Soak in the Caldeira Velha hot springs
- Eat seafood with ocean views
- Watch artisans at Lagoa’s pottery workshop
- Vila Franca de Campo islet by kayak or boat
Day 2
- Canyoning at Ribeira dos Caldeirões with Fun Activities Azores
- Visit Gorreana Tea Plantation
- Explore geothermal power in Furnas Valley
- Soak at Poça da Dona Beija or Terra Nostra hot springs
- Eat the famous cozido das Furnas at Tony’s
Day 3
- Explore the Sete Cidades crater by quad bike
- Head west to Mosteiros village for lunch
- Swim at the thermal ocean pool at Ponta da Ferraria
Day 4
- Join a whale and dolphin watching tour with Futurismo
- Explore the streets of Ponta Delgada and visit a cheese shop
- Free time for a final nature adventure or a hot spring
Weather tip for São Miguel: If you keep your schedule semi-flexible, you’ll be able to adapt to the changing weather. Download the SpotAzores app for fast access to webcams across the island – if it’s sunny in Furnas and cloudy at Sete Cidades, then it’s easy to change plans or swap your days around.
Should you rent a car on São Miguel Island?
If you can drive, I highly recommend getting your own wheels. A rental car will give you the freedom to explore São Miguel at your own pace. Plus, this four-day São Miguel Island itinerary has been written with the assumption that you will rent a car.
I’ve used both Ilha Verde and Autatlantis car rental and had a great experience with both local companies. I booked both rentals through discovercars.com – a site I use to compare companies and prices – and it was actually cheaper than booking direct. I think it meant the local companies gave me an older rental, but I prefer to receive a car with scratches!
If you can’t rent a car, the public transport network of buses can connect you around the island. However, the towns and attractions are fairly spread out, so I’d recommend paying for a handful of guided day trips and basing yourself in Ponta Delgada.
➡️ Check your dates for a car rental
Where to stay on São Miguel Island
Just a 10-minute drive from the airport, the capital of Ponta Delgada makes for a great, central base. Here, you’ll find stacks of great hotels plus plenty of guesthouses. One of the benefits of staying in Ponta Delgada is having easy access to great restaurants and cool bars in the evenings, and if you don’t rent a car, it’s handy for hopping on day trips and tours.
Hotel suggestions for Ponta Delgada:
- Octant Ponta Delgada – 5-star waterfront stay, pet-friendly
- Grand Hotel Açores Atlântico – 5-star waterfront stay
- NINE DOTS Azorean Art Boutique Hotel – 4-star old town stay
- Hotel Ponta Delgada – 3-star top-rated hotel
- Herdade do Ananás – boutique guesthouse at a pineapple plantation
With four days or more, you could split your time on the island. Another good base is Furnas, a large thermal town where you’ll find hot springs and bubbling caldeiras. The Terra Nostra Hotel is a classic, or you could try Octant Furnas (with its thermal pools and spa).
Another great option is any coastal guesthouse or rural farmstay in a small village somewhere on the island. Perhaps you want to stay somewhere fairly central that’s a short drive from Ponta Delgada, or opt for a more remote setting like Mosteiros (a coastal town with a black sand beach), or even the wilder, more rugged Nordeste area.
Day 1 – Rainforest thermal springs, seafood feast & local gems
Total driving distance: 95km \\ 1-hour, 45 minutes (Google Maps)
Morning: Arrive at Aeropuerto de Ponta Delgada João Paulo II, visit Caldeira Velha hot springs
One of the best ways to get in touch with Azorean nature on São Miguel is at the thermal pools, and one of my favourites is Caldeira Velha. These rocky thermal pools set in an ancient rainforest immerse you in a full sensory experience.
Start with the upper waterfall pool, where hot water cascades down into a large pool – this one is cooler than the rest, so great for a 10/10 photo. The other two pools, closer to the entrance, are around 39°C – an ideal temperature to relax among Jurassic-sized tree ferns, thick layers of moss and vines, and rising steam. Close your eyes and soak in the deep shrill of small frogs, the gentle rush of water, and the twitter of birds and humans. Take a deep breath and try to pick the sulphur from the petricor, as light rain hits the moss.
Tip: You must, must book the springs the day ahead – and it does sell out. Go first thing in the morning for the quieter session.
After the springs, you could swing by Salto do Cabrito, a waterfall very close by. From the car park, a round trip takes about 45 minutes on foot.
Read next… Guide to São Miguel’s hot springs
Lunch: Boca Aberta or Bar Caloura
For lunch, I’m giving you two options. Bar Caloura is a favourite oceanfront restaurant with a great reputation for grilled fish, fresh prawns and sizzling limpets (lapas). Problem is, it’s super popular and they don’t take reservations, so you need to arrive early! Otherwise, you can always put your name down and then go for a dip in the cute bay before lunch.
Alternatively, on my most recent trip, I discovered Boca Aberta in Lagoa (pictured), a chic seafood restaurant set above the small fishing port, where a huge veranda hosts dozens of tables with great views. Call to book and enjoy a menu of both traditional and modern snacks, including octopus, smoked fish, tuna tartare, whole crab, clams, prawns, lobster and fresh fish. I noticed the restaurant only offers the freshest of what’s in season.
Read next… Where to eat on São Miguel Island, Azores
Heard of coastering? Around Caloura you try this active adventure where you’ll climb, swim and jump around the rocky coastline. Think of it as a coastal version of canyoning.
Afternoon: Lagoa pottery, Vila Franca de Campo islet by kayak & the Gin Library
Visit Cerâmica Vieira
In Lagoa, you can’t miss visiting Cerâmica Vieira, the biggest pottery workshop in the Azores, open since 1862. You’re able to wander the whole place freely to see where the terracotta – a mix of clay from the neighbouring Azorean island of Santa Maria and commercial clay from the mainland – is fired, glazed, hand-painted and finished. It’s free, just show up.
Explore Vila Franca de Campo
Then, head to Vila Franca do Campo, a relaxed coastal town that’s worth a stop – especially for a small adventure out to the famous crater islet just 1 km (0.6 mile) offshore. You can jump in a kayak or take a boat ride out there to swim and snorkel (in summer) inside its almost perfectly circular protected lagoon – once a volcanic cone, now a natural swimming pool! Back on the main island, drive uphill to the Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Paz, where a steep white staircase (with blue-and-white tiles) leads to panoramic views over the town and ocean.
Taste the world’s largest collection of gin
Did you know this remote island in the middle of the Atlantic has the world’s largest gin library? The Gin Library is a really cool bar, just outside Ponta Delgada, with more than 2,000 unique gins from across the globe. Drop in for a G&T made from one of the many gins they produce under their brand, Ghosts of the Ocean, or bring an unusual gin and swap for a bottle. My friend brought along an artisanal gin from Australia, and the lovely staff were so excited about it! It truly added to the experience.
Dinner: Steak at the agricultural association
For dinner, you can’t miss the Restaurante da Associação Agrícola de São Miguel. This well-known restaurant serves top-quality Azorean beef, and it’s a great place to try the Bife à “Associação” – a steak served with a light sauce of white wine and garlic, topped with a fried egg and pickled red pepper.
Want to visit when the hydrangeas are in bloom? The flowers bloom from May to September, but peak in July and August. The picture above is from my August visit, while on my most recent mid-late June visit I really struggled to find any glorious hydrangeas!
Day 2 – East side: Canyoning at Ribeira dos Caldeirões & Furnas hot springs & lake
Total driving distance: 132km \\ 2.5 hours (Google Maps)
Morning: Canyoning at Ribeira dos Caldeirões
Hiking through a rainforest in a wetsuit wasn’t on my Azores bingo card, but there I was with a hard hat on and high-top boots, making my way along the creek at Ribeira dos Caldeirões. I’d signed up for the beginner-level canyoning adventure with Fun Activities Azores. It’s a challenging, immersive adventure where you zipline and rappel down waterfalls, slip down rock slides, splash through streams and leap from a height of 3.5 metres into the water.
For me, the jump was the hardest part, but I felt cared for and safe in the hands of our trusty guides, Diogo, Inês and Guilherme. The experience takes forest bathing to another level, and time flew by as we made our way down the creek, surrounded by lush trees and ginger lilies. Next time I’ll be ready for level two!
Lunch: Visit Gorreana Tea Plantation
Make a detour to Gorreana Tea Plantation, the oldest (and only) tea plantation in Europe. Wander the lush green fields, peek inside the factory and sip a free cup overlooking the rows upon rows of tea bushes. Grab a light bite to eat at the cafe – try the traditional island cakes or even cookies made with Azorean tea leaves (they were really good!).
For a more substantial meal, you could check out the casual and traditional Cantinho do Cais in the next town, Casa de Pasto O Amaral in Porto Formoso, or the garden bar at Praia dos Moinhos.
Afternoon: Thermal hot springs and sightseeing in Furnas
Take a winding scenic drive into Furnas, a steamy green valley where the earth bubbles beneath your feet. Make the Lagoa das Furnas your first stop. Here at the lake’s edge, you can watch local families and restaurants pull steel vats from steaming geothermal pits. Within is usually a stew of cozido das Furnas – your dinner.
Jump back in the car, and cruise into Furnas town, where at one edge lies the Caldeiras das Furnas, a cluster of hissing fumaroles and mud pots that smell like eggs. Bring a cup or drink bottle and work your way around almost a dozen natural springs – you can taste the mineral waters, each with a unique taste and differing temperatures and effervescence.
Then, it’s time to relax, and Furnas has two dreamy hot springs to visit:
- Poça da Dona Beija – my favourite. This is a series of four open-air, orange-tinted pools tucked within tropical greenery along a creek. It’s one of the only ones open in the evening, so you can go after dark – just be sure to book the day ahead (at least) and don’t miss your timeslot.
- Terra Nostra Park – At the centre of one of the lushest botanical gardens lies a massive, iron-rich, orange-tinged pool, fed by a volcanic spring with a temperature of 40ºC (104ºF). The pool was first built in the early 1780s and expanded in the 1930s to what you see today. Terra Nostra also has a couple of smaller thermal jacuzzi baths. Just note: the baths close quite early to give the guests of Terra Nostra Hotel exclusive use.
Thermal tip: bring a dark swimsuit and towel – the iron-rich water will leave its mark.
Dinner: Cozido das Furnas at Tony’s
You’ve seen the thermal cooking at the lake, tasted various springs, soaked in a hot spring… and now it’s time to taste the famous stew from Furnas, slow-cooked underground. Cozido à portuguesa is a traditional boiled stew from the mainland, where various meats, smoked sausages, root vegetables, cabbage and rice are all cooked within the same pot. In Furnas, the same ingredients go into a big pot that’s placed underground and buried with dirt to let the geothermal heat do its thing.
Tony’s is the classic spot to try it. You just need to call ahead to reserve a table and order the stew – I’d suggest the large one-person portion is enough to serve two. It’s a full-menu restaurant, so you can always supplement it with entrees or another main.
After dinner: The Poça da Dona Beija hot springs are open until late, so there’s definitely time for a post-dinner soak. Or stop for a nightcap at Espinha Cocktail Bar.
Day 3 – West side: Sete Cidades quad biking (or on foot) & thermal ocean pool
Total driving distance: 78km \\ 2 hours (Google Maps)
Morning: Quad bike the rim of Sete Cidades crater
Sete Cidades is São Miguel’s showstopper. This giant, 500-metre-deep volcanic crater – filled with twin lakes, one blue and one green (with a legend to match) – was formed 22,000 years ago and is the island’s most famous sight.
Sete Cidades is a must-see on any São Miguel itinerary, and I’ve visited three times. While exploring the famous lookouts or hiking there on foot is great (I’ll share tips below), traversing the whole rim of this famous crater by quad bike was unreal, and I can’t wait to experience it again.
On the back of the quads, you feel the full force of nature with the wind in your face as you climb quiet backroads, past farmland, and make the steep ascent to the crater rim. After a photo pause, we continued along an incredible off-road trail, skirting the crater-edge until we paused at the next all-the-more breathtaking viewpoint.
The Sete Cidades Legend: According to Azorean legend, the twin lakes of Sete Cidades were formed from the tears of a forbidden love between a green-eyed princess and a blue-eyed shepherd. When they were forced to part, their tears filled the crater, creating the two lakes: one green, one blue – forever side by side.
Being on a small-group adventure tour like this gave us the feeling of almost having Sete Cidades to ourselves. Along the way, we passed plenty of hikers and even a packed car park where people were setting off like a trail of human ants for the Vista do Rei viewpoint. After the rim, we descended into Sete Cidades town for a coffee break, before making the return trip, complete with a coastal detour.
I’m not a massive adventure girlie, but I felt really safe with our guide, Bruno, from Azores Outdoor Activities. We were a group of three quads and four buggies (which have steering wheels more like a car and seem easier to drive). I preferred to be on the quad – we were right behind Bruno and could follow his every move and manoeuvre. The buggies were at the back of the pack. Our ascent was fairly slow-paced compared to the return journey – clearly, the group had found its confidence with their wheels.
Quad tour tip: When booking this experience, consider your personal limits wisely. My friend had promised to drive, but had a little panic a couple of minutes in, so we swapped. If you’re not comfortable with quad/motorbike steering, then book the buggy option. Check your dates here.
Exploring Sete Cidades independently
If you’re planning to visit Sete Cidades independently, then punch the Vista do Rei viewpoint into your GPS. The “King’s View” is a spectacular postcard-worthy spot to first take in the lakes. You can park about 200m away for 20 minutes, but if you want to stay longer and hike, you’ll need to park 1km away.
Next, I’d head to the Miradouro da Boca do Inferno (sometimes called Grota do Inferno). From this viewpoint, you’ll see the main Lagoa de Sete Cidades, two other crater lakes – Rasa and Santiago, and the ocean. It’s a brilliant view over this volcanic caldera, but to reach it, you’ll need to hike.
Don’t rely on Google Maps for this – it will lead you astray. The trailhead for Boca do Inferno (Devil’s Mouth!) starts from the parking lot at Lagoa do Canario – GPS yourself here, then lace up your sneakers and follow this trail. It’ll take about 50 minutes to complete the 2.6-km (1.6-mile) out-and-back trail. Go early, as this one is very popular – and while it starts easy, it gets very steep.
After, I’d drive down to Sete Cidades town for a coffee stop. Here you can see the lakes up close and even get kayaks to paddle across the water.
Lunch: O Américo de Barbosa in Mosteiros
Head west to Mosteiros for lunch at O Américo de Barbosa, a no-frills, family-run spot known for its legendary octopus. The portions are generous, but to get a table, you’ll want to call ahead – or be prepared to wait.
Afternoon: Ponta da Ferraria thermal ocean pools
Ponta da Ferraria is one of São Miguel’s most surreal swimming spots – a natural ocean pool where hot thermal water seeps up through volcanic rock and mixes with the waves. Yep, this is one for your very Azorean bucket list.
You want to time your visit with the tides – at high tide you won’t feel the warm water. You want to be within two hours either side of low tide. It’s a fun experience, though it can feel like being in a washing machine!
Drivers beware: the road down to the car park is incredibly steep, with hairpin turns that aren’t for the faint-hearted. At the bottom, you’ll find plenty of easy parking.
Sunset: If you didn’t make it to Mosteiros for lunch, it’s a worthy spot to watch the sunset. This coastal village has a relaxed vibe with a huge black sand beach. Around Ponta dos Mosteiros, you can also explore natural ocean pools in the volcanic rock, and stop by bars to knock back some grilled lapas (limpets) with a sunset ale.
Day 4 – Whale watching cruise, Ponta Delgada & Free Time
Total driving distance: unknown – depends on activity choice
Morning: Whale watching cruise with Futurismo
If you’re going to spot whales in the Azores, do it with Futurismo. This local company has marine biologists on board and whale spotters posted in towers across the island, scanning the sea with binoculars to help guide your boat to the action. Four resident species live and play in these waters – sperm whales and three types of dolphin (common, Risso’s and bottlenose). We didn’t get lucky with a whale this time, but watching a huge pod of common dolphins leap and glide alongside us was thrilling. We also saw a pod of migratory Atlantic spotted dolphins.
You can choose between a fast-paced zodiac or a catamaran cruise – we picked the catamaran and, although it was with a larger group, I appreciated the freedom to move between terraces and decks rather than being strapped in. From the small lower deck, dolphins swam so close they felt within reach.
Lotsof dolphin and whale watching tour companies operate in the Azores, and I chose Futurismo for a couple of reasons. It’s a purpose-driven, family-owned business operating since 1990 and is known for its scientific research – apparently it has strong female leadership too.
Lunch: Ponta Delgada
If you set off on a morning cruise (there’s also the option of afternoon dolphin cruises), you’ll arrive back in Ponta Delgada in time for lunch. For a local classic, try Mané Cigano; put your name down at the ever-popular A Tasca; or go for modern Nikkei cuisine at Ají or Õtaka.
Afternoon: Your choice – one last adventure or Ponta Delgada exploring
On the final afternoon, it’s your choice: explore the charming streets of Ponta Delgada and its newfound cool side; go for another hot spring adventure; or escape into nature. It’s good to have this extra time up your sleeve in case you need to change plans due to the weather.
Ponta Delgada, the subtly cool city
Ponta Delgada genuinely surprised me in 2025. When I first came in 2019, it felt like a sleepy island capital – but now, it’s quietly cool. Beyond the historic arches and churches, you’ll find independent galleries, concept stores, cocktail bars and creative restaurants wrapped up with the O Quarteirão project. This local movement highlights the city’s emerging “artistic block”, where artists, chefs and designers are building something fresh, creative and proudly Azorean. Explore the map here.
I’d recommend at least one afternoon and evening in Ponta Delgada. And also make sure you visit Rei dos Queijos, an amazing cheese shop at the edge of the Mercado da Graça.
One more São Miguel nature adventure…
- Explore more of the lakes: Lagoa do Congro or Lagoa do Fogo
- Laze at another beach – Praia do Fogo at Ribeira Quente is an adventurous drive
- Take a scenic boat trip on the north coast
- Drive to Faial da Terra for the Salto do Prego waterfall hike
Or a food adventure…
- Visit a pineapple plantation and taste the sweet, small Azorean ananas
- Drink craft beer at neighbouring breweries: Vulcana and Azores Brewing Company
- Join a cooking class
Make sure you head to the airport with enough time before your departing flight to fill up your rental car with petrol/gas.
Extra tips for planning your itinerary for São Miguel Island
- São Miguel is bigger than you might think – having a car is essential if you want to explore properly, but give yourself time to enjoy the drives (especially the scenic ones along the north and east coasts).
- The summer months – June to September – are the busiest. Be sure to book a rental car ahead of time to avoid missing out
- Same goes for restaurants – anywhere popular, you should call ahead to book a table. Most places are used to English speakers, or you can ask your hotel to help book.
- Azoreans eat dinner earlier than on the mainland – between 7pm and 8pm is the sweet spot.
- Supermarkets are open Sundays, but many small shops and bakeries are closed or have limited hours.
- Tipping isn’t expected, but rounding up or leaving a euro or two is always appreciated.
- Bring layers. You can go from bright sun to thick mist in the same hour. Pack swimwear, walking shoes and a rain jacket – you’ll likely need all three in one day.
São Miguel Island weather
São Miguel’s weather is famously changeable – the locals like to say you can experience four seasons in one day. It’s why using the Spot Azores island webcams is almost more important than checking the forecast.
Due to the island’s mid-Atlantic location, temperatures are mild year-round, usually sitting between 22°C and 26°C (72°F–79°F) in summer and rarely dropping below 14°C (57°F) in winter.
Clouds (and rain showers) often pass over quickly, which is why you’ll need a swimsuit and a rain jacket with you. It’s good to keep both in the rental car.
Plus, while the ocean is warm enough for swimming from late spring through early autumn, the island’s volcanic hot springs will welcome you year-long. A thermal soak is particularly moody and enjoyable on a misty day.
I was hosted for whale watching by Futurismo and canyoning with Fun Activities Azores, but all reflections and reviews are based on my unfiltered personal perspective.
