The Independent Guide to the Douro Valley: Road trip logistics, best things to do & where to stay
Portugal’s most famous wine region, the Douro Valley, is a dramatic collaboration between nature and man. Here, hand-carved vine terraces snake along steep hills, stretching from the winding Douro River towards the clouds like staircases for giants. Every hairpin turn reveals a new horizon of vines and more vines, broken only by the solitary silhouette […]
Best boat tours in Porto (that I’ve done!): Six Bridge Cruise Vs Sailboats
There’s nothing quite like seeing a new city from the water, and the Douro River is Porto’s lifeblood. Whether you’re looking for a quick budget-friendly zip under the bridges or a slow-paced afternoon with a glass of Port in hand, you’ll find a boat tour in Porto for every price point and vibe. I’ve visited […]
Where to stay in Porto: Best neighbourhoods & hotels
Porto, the Invicta City (unvanquished), is a historic hash of granite streets and tall skinny buildings that lead down to the winding Douro River. While Lisbon is golden and sun-drenched, Porto is more moody and romantic. It’s this juxtaposed vibe that has drawn me back more than a dozen times since I moved to Portugal […]
Where to stay in Coimbra: Best neighbourhoods & hotels
Portugal’s medieval capital and the heart of its academia is often treated as a quick pitstop by visitors en route from Lisbon to Porto. But with so much to see, to truly get a feel for the small university city, I believe you need to stay overnight. Coimbra buzzes with a youthful, student energy and […]
Where to eat in Coimbra
At the heart of Central Portugal lies Coimbra, an ancient city with a young student heart. To eat here is to navigate that same contrast. One moment you could be seated in a medieval alleyway peeling meat off a tray of pig bones, and the next sipping Bairrada sparkling wines on a rooftop overlooking the […]
36 hours in Coimbra
You won’t see the inside of Coimbra’s most stunning building on this blog, or almost anywhere. So concerned is the leadership of Portugal’s oldest — and for hundreds of years only — university with protecting the bibliophilic treasures enshrined on the holiest floor of its ancient library that no photos are allowed. Think of it […]
35 unusual and off-beat things to do in Portugal
It was while standing beneath the 8-metre (26-feet) high glass ceilings of Carlos Relvas’ mid-19th-century photography studio (in the middle of Portugal’s virtually unknown Ribatejo region) that I thought, ‘wow, Portugal has so many amazing stories that most people won’t know or hear about’. I’ve lived in Lisbon since 2018, and since then I’ve been […]
Eating through Athens: Markets and mezze to modern Greek spots
Down in the basement of Diporto time stalled some time around 1955. Wine barrels line the walls of the centenarian taverna where a brusque, elderly gentleman named Mitsos is flipping small fish on a tiny charcoal grill. Large time-worn steel pots bubble away on the stove. It’s said to be the oldest working-class spot near […]
Where to eat in Tavira: Best restaurants & cafés
Somewhere between my second flat white of the day and a plate of clams drenched in olive oil and white wine, I realised Tavira might just be the best town in the Algarve to eat and drink well. I’ve visited this eastern Algarve beauty half a dozen times since moving to Portugal in 2018. On […]
24 hours in Arraiolos: Rugs, food & wine in the Alentejo
Set amongst rolling plains dotted with olive trees and cork oaks, Arraiolos is a small Alentejo town – not far from Lisbon or Évora – with a cool and unique craft culture. Over centuries, women of the quiet vila have hand-stitched a legacy of carpet weaving. I’ve visited Arraiolos several times over the years, drawn […]
1-Day hike: The most beautiful section of Portugal’s Fishermen’s Trail
Besides the caminho, mainland Portugal’s most famous multi-day hike must be the gorgeous Costa Vicentina’s Fishermen’s Trail. The 226.5-km (140-mile) coastal trail stretches along the south-west coast of Portugal, almost always with the ocean in sight. I’ve long been curious about hiking at least part of the trail, and spending a few nights in Porto […]
Where to eat in the western Algarve: Best restaurants in Aljezur, Arrifana & Sagres
The south-west edge of Portugal has a different feeling altogether. On the wild and gorgeous western Algarve coast, a handful of villages have quietly attracted an international crowd seeking surf, sunshine and a slower, sustainable lifestyle. Over decades, this mix of local Portuguese with other Europeans and people from further abroad has etched out a […]