Where to stay in Coimbra: Best neighbourhoods & hotels
Portugal’s medieval capital and the heart of its academia is often treated as a quick pitstop by visitors en route from Lisbon to Porto. But with so much to see, to truly get a feel for the small university city, I believe you need to stay overnight. Coimbra buzzes with a youthful, student energy and […]
Where to eat in Coimbra
At the heart of Central Portugal lies Coimbra, an ancient city with a young student heart. To eat here is to navigate that same contrast. One moment you could be seated in a medieval alleyway peeling meat off a tray of pig bones, and the next sipping Bairrada sparkling wines on a rooftop overlooking the […]
36 hours in Coimbra
You won’t see the inside of Coimbra’s most stunning building on this blog, or almost anywhere. So concerned is the leadership of Portugal’s oldest — and for hundreds of years only — university with protecting the bibliophilic treasures enshrined on the holiest floor of its ancient library that no photos are allowed. Think of it […]
35 unusual and off-beat things to do in Portugal
It was while standing beneath the 8-metre (26-feet) high glass ceilings of Carlos Relvas’ mid-19th-century photography studio (in the middle of Portugal’s virtually unknown Ribatejo region) that I thought, ‘wow, Portugal has so many amazing stories that most people won’t know or hear about’. I’ve lived in Lisbon since 2018, and since then I’ve been […]
Eating through Athens: Markets and mezze to modern Greek spots
Down in the basement of Diporto time stalled some time around 1955. Wine barrels line the walls of the centenarian taverna where a brusque, elderly gentleman named Mitsos is flipping small fish on a tiny charcoal grill. Large time-worn steel pots bubble away on the stove. It’s said to be the oldest working-class spot near […]
Where to eat in Tavira: Best restaurants & cafés
Somewhere between my second flat white of the day and a plate of clams drenched in olive oil and white wine, I realised Tavira might just be the best town in the Algarve to eat and drink well. I’ve visited this eastern Algarve beauty half a dozen times since moving to Portugal in 2018. On […]
24 hours in Arraiolos: Rugs, food & wine in the Alentejo
Set amongst rolling plains dotted with olive trees and cork oaks, Arraiolos is a small Alentejo town – not far from Lisbon or Évora – with a cool and unique craft culture. Over centuries, women of the quiet vila have hand-stitched a legacy of carpet weaving. I’ve visited Arraiolos several times over the years, drawn […]
1-Day hike: The most beautiful section of Portugal’s Fishermen’s Trail
Besides the caminho, mainland Portugal’s most famous multi-day hike must be the gorgeous Costa Vicentina’s Fishermen’s Trail. The 226.5-km (140-mile) coastal trail stretches along the south-west coast of Portugal, almost always with the ocean in sight. I’ve long been curious about hiking at least part of the trail, and spending a few nights in Porto […]
Where to eat in the western Algarve: Best restaurants in Aljezur, Arrifana & Sagres
The south-west edge of Portugal has a different feeling altogether. On the wild and gorgeous western Algarve coast, a handful of villages have quietly attracted an international crowd seeking surf, sunshine and a slower, sustainable lifestyle. Over decades, this mix of local Portuguese with other Europeans and people from further abroad has etched out a […]
Made in Portugal: 30 sustainable Portuguese fashion brands
While I talk a lot about food, travel and tiles here, I’m also super passionate about sustainable Portuguese fashion and ethical brands that produce things here in Portugal. This small, highly-educated country is one of the world’s top 10 shoemaking countries and is pushing innovation in textile technology and clothing. But of course, it takes […]
Best Lisbon fado shows (that I’ve seen) & guide to fado restaurants in Lisbon
After slinking through the dark back streets of Alfama just after 11pm, we knocked on two large wooden doors, and a gruff face appeared. Fado? He ushered us inside the small space, straight to the dimly lit bar at the back. With a red wine in hand, we swivelled around to take in the space […]
Best Lisbon day trips for wine & food lovers
There’s no mistaking that Lisbon is an incredible food city, but some of Portugal’s most memorable meals can also be found outside the city limits. Within an easy drive (or train) from the capital, you’ll find fishing towns stuffed with great seafood, wine villages with sandy soils, a UNESCO city with its own regional cuisine, […]