Updated Jan 21, 2025
The best espetadas on Madeira Island? Not where we expected to find them. Forget the famous spots in Câmara de Lobos. Next time we land in Madeira we’ll be returning straight to this local espetada spot – which we visited twice on our first trip and returned to on our second.
Guest post by Jorge Branco.
Meat and fire. Sometimes that’s all you need.
Add a generous dose of garlic and salt and you have the makings of the perfect caveman meal.
Madeira is famous for its skewers. Be it beef, sausages or pork, the Madeirenses will skewer it on the flavourful wood of the bay tree and grill it to perfection.
The hanging meats are ubiquitous across the Portuguese Atlantic island but only one espetada experience haunts my dreams, threatening to lure me onto a plane just to relive the moment.
Roaring flames and huge jugs of cheap red wine. Soft bread soaks up the delicious meat juices dripping slowly from the skewers. And there’s not a chair in sight.
There’s a boisterous and convivial atmosphere akin to if you stuffed a backyard barbecue into a restaurant, because that’s basically what this is.
But I’m getting ahead of myself. Talho do Caniço is a do-it-yourself grill in two parts: a butcher and the rustic tavern that sits behind it.
First, you walk into the butcher, order what you want (at very reasonable prices) and wait as they chop it, season it and whack it on giant metal skewers for you. Then, you need to go to the tavern.
Read next: Where to eat and drink in Madeira
It feels a little odd to walk back outside and down the street carrying these raw-protein-adorned jousting sticks, but in a good way.
Head into the rustic restaurant and find yourself a table where medieval torture device-like stands will hold your raw skewers as you order some bread and wine (or whatever else you like to drink) at the bar.
Take a skewer or two over to the grill while the others hang there waiting their turn. This is where it gets interesting.
When I say DIY I mean it. You’re in control of where to put your skewer, when to turn it and how long to cook it for. Fortunately, a grill master is there to keep the fire roaring and supervise novices. The hardest thing is remembering your skewer number when the grill gets busy.
It really was a barbeque vibe when we were there, even down to the good-natured arguments about how to grill. It sounds kind of touristy and kitsch when I explain it but we were the only estrangeiros (foreigners) there. So be chill if you go and don’t ruin it!
Back at the table, it’s a primal experience as you use the bread to grab piping hot hunks of meat straight off the skewer and tuck into the best steak (or sausage) sandwich of your life. Tender, juicy, perfectly seasoned. Choose your own favourite meaty cliche because they all apply here.
Talho do Caniço
The details: Talho do Caniço is only open Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and the fire will be roaring from 12pm until 10pm. It’s close to the airport, so for our second visit we dropped in around 5pm for one final meat feast – and it was still kicking with locals enjoying a long, late lunch.
Address: Rua Padre Agostinho de Freitas 18, Caniço
Prices: €2.20 for a whole loaf of bread, €5 for 1L of beer, around €13 for two skewers (2024)
Other top places to eat espetadas on Madeira Island
Espetadas are ubiquitous across the island of Madeira, so it’s easy enough to find them – though not everywhere does them well. While Talho do Caniço is my long-time favourite, below I’ll share a handful of places with great reputation for
- Talho Seixal, Seixal – outdoor grill-yourself spot with ocean views
- Casa de Pasto das Eiras, Camacha
- Cabo Aéreo Café Restaurant, São Jorge (northeast) – amazing tuna belly too
- As Vides, Câmara de Lobos
- O Lagar, Câmara de Lobos
- O Polar, Câmara de Lobos
- Santo António, Câmara de Lobos
Still hungry? Read Where to eat and drink in Madeira and discover What to eat and drink in Madeira
Food lover? Us too, clearly. You cant’ miss the Sunday Santo da Serra Farmers Market in Madeira
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Keep reading…
- Ultimate guide to exploring Madeira Island
- Sunday in Madeira at the Santo da Serra Farmers Market
- The 4 best hikes (that I’ve done) on Madeira Island
- Itinerary: Our magical 5-day Madeira Island road trip
- What to eat and drink in Madeira: the best local dishes to try
- Where to eat and drink in Madeira
- 8 best poncha bars on Madeira Island
- Best medieval and historic events in Portugal
- Food Festival Guide: Best Gastronomic Events in Portugal
