My favourite tascas in Lisbon: Where to eat traditional Portuguese food

Every Lisboeta grew up eating at tascas, and so every local has a favourite hidden gem or secret spot in their Lisbon neighbourhood. A tasca is essentially a Portuguese bistro. They are cheap, family run and you can enjoy a traditional Portuguese meal with wine, snacks and dessert for €10 to €20 most of the time.

They are the beating heart of Portuguese cuisine, and something that seems to unite people of all social classes. I find there is so much variety in Portuguese cuisine, and tascas are the humble tables where you get to eat like the locals, with the locals.

Portuguese people are extraordinarily proud of their culinary heritage. It makes writing a definitive list of the best tascas in Lisbon a seemingly impossible task. So that’s not what this is. This is a list of my favourite tascas in Lisbon that I’ve enjoyed visiting over the past six years or so. 

When I first moved to Lisbon I picked up a fantastic book by local food writer Tiago Pais who has written a definite list of the 50 Best Tascas in Lisbon. While it’s a few years old now, and some tables have shut their doors, I call it my Lisbon bible and I can still highly recommend getting a copy. 

Tips and rules for enjoying a Portuguese tasca

Don’t be the tourist that leaves Google reviews complaining about sassy service and being charged for snacks at tascas without understanding the culture of these cheap, homely Portuguese diners. When you sit down, the waiter will throw a bunch of snacks down – olives, bread, maybe some croquettes or samosas, an octopus salad. The snacks are not free, but are usually a few euros at most. If you want to eat them, eat them. If you don’t – push them to the side and ask they be taken away. Most of these snacks are 50c to €3, but you can check the menu before diving in. 

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I see tourists complain that service is curt, but that’s part of the charm and tradition. If you speak Portuguese you’ll hear a charming mix of dad jokes, grammar pedantry and friendly (ish) banter with the regulars. These are often family affairs — many times just the husband waiting tables as the wife cooks — so don’t come expecting hospitality-school-trained staff or silver service. Do expect to throw your arm in the air, holding up fingers to indicate how many more imperiais (small beers) you want.

Many tascas are only open for lunch during the week, so check the opening hours before assuming it will be open Friday night. It’s best to carry cash, as many don’t accept credit card (or only accept local Portuguese cards). Tipping is not entrenched in Portuguese culture, but it’s polite to leave a few coin or up to 10% of the bill for good service.

Some of the bom e barato (good and cheap) tascas on my list have likely evolved into what many would call restaurants. So before the Portuguese crowd come after me – this is a list of my favourites, so it includes true tascas along with a few traditional snack bars and restaurants who might charge €14 instead of €8 for a plate. It is 2024 after all, and I think that’s okay.

Finally, I’ve also included a list of some next-generation, modern tascas towards the bottom. These are cool spots run by young chefs who are putting a modern spin on traditional dishes while keeping the prices very attractive. You can eat well without going broke.

How to identify a good tasca

• Paper tablecloths. These are essential. 
• Bonus points for a paper tablecloth taped to the outside of the restaurant scrawled with the pratos do dia (plates of the day) – always only in Portuguese, so have Google images handy.
• TV in one corner with news or sport. It’s not unusual to see people dining solo.
• The couvert: The waiter will drop olives, bread and little packets of butter and sardine paté on the table when you arrive.
• House wine comes from a box, but it’s better than you’d expect.
• Specials on certain days of the week. For example, some do Cozido à portuguesa every Wednesday.
• Desserts on display. You should be able to wander over and see the house-made desserts. Bonus points for a retro mirrored cabinet.
• Interiors that haven’t been updated in at least 40 years. Think steel countertops and retro tiles.
• Interiors that reflect the terra (land) or local sports clubs. Think old agricultural equipment or scarves and jerseys from Benfica or Sporting

How to eat and drink in a tasca

The lunch rush happens from about 1pm, so aim to be there by 12.45pm to beat the crowds. Sit down and snack on the couvert, which will likely be some olives, bread, butter and maybe cheese while you read the menu and decide.

At lunch I’ll usually try to order a prato do dia as these specials often offer better value and are more interesting than the standard menu, which might just have grilled meat or fish. During the week you can often access the menu do dia as well, which is a set menu that usually includes the bread, main plate, coffee and a drink, and sometimes also a soup or dessert – it varies from spot to spot and will cost between €10-15. These local canteens or bistros often have a house specialty, plus there will be daily specials that might repeat every week, for example cozido à portuguesa (meat stew) on Wednesdays.

At tascas you can also eat petiscos (starters or Portuguese tapas). These are things like grilled prawns (gamba á guilho) or octopus salad (salada do polvo). But at lunch you can skip straight to the main, maybe enjoying the sopa do dia (soup of the day) to start.

At the end of the meal, you can view the dessert menu, or wander over to the dessert cabinet to eye up your sweets. Pair it with an espresso. Ask for café com cheirinho if you want the espresso with a shot of liqueur, usually a grape-based moonshine known as bagaço. You could also ask for port wine, whisky, moscatel or bagaço on its own.

My favourite tascas in Lisbon (and what to order)

This is a big list, so I’ve tried to group them by area of Lisbon. I’ve also made a Google Map to make it easy to see where they are. It’s also my personal list, and I live over towards the west so it leans heavy in that direction. 

I have a long list of Lisbon tascas that I’m yet to try, and I’ll keep adding to this list. If you have a favourite Lisbon tasca from your travels or childhood, leave me a comment.

On that note, downtown Lisbon is changing fast and these places open 30, 40, 50 years are being priced out to make way for hotels and ramen bars. I’ll do my best to keep this up-to-date – and you do your best to support local places that are part of the cultural fabric of the city. Vamos!

Central & East Lisbon tascas: Baixa, Chiado, Mouraria, Cais do Sodré, Alfama

Zé dos Cornos

Ribs, ribs, ribs! They do them savoury style in Portugal, garlicky and salty instead of drowned in barbecue sauce. Share a rack straight off the charcoal grill for around €10 with a tomato salad and bean rice. There’s always a line at Zé dos Cornos but (as with most places) they’ll happily serve you beers while you wait on the street.

Where: Mouraria
Address: Beco Surradores 5, 1100-591 Lisboa
What to order: Piano (ribs)

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Das Flores

This inner-city tasca is absolutely fantastic, but don’t go thinking you can just walk in. it’s definitely one of my favourite spots in the city but I’ve always found it’s best to book ahead. It’s only open for lunch, the prices are good, and the dishes are varied. 

Where: Chiado
Address: Rua das Flores 76 78, 1200-195 Lisboa
What to order: Bacalhau (salted cod) dishes, polvo á lagareiro (octopus), croquettes

Zé da Mouraria

I’ve had multiple top chefs tell me that Zé da Mouraria is the best tasca in the city, and who am I to argue? At first glance the prices might seem steep, but order a meal and an entire frying pan or tray of food will land on your table – enough to feed three.

Where: Mouraria, but there’s now a few location in the city
Address: R. João do Outeiro 24, 1100-292 Lisboa
What to order: bacalhau com grão (salted cod with chickpeas)

Casa do Alentejo

I’ve always loved visiting the tavern at Casa do Alentejo, a cultural centre set within a 17th-century palace in the heart of Lisbon. It feels like a hidden gem to walk in there and find a small courtyard with a huge olive tree, and it’s open all afternoon making it a good spot for afternoon cravings. This is less of a tasca and more of a snack bar or petisco (tapas) spot. You’ll get to try Alentejo dishes here, like migas, a sort of bread stuffing.

Where: Baixa
Address: R. das Portas de Santo Antão 58, 1150-268 Lisboa
What to order: chouriço (chorizo cooked at the table), migas com porco (bread stuffing with pork)

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Sardinha

This is an Alfama classic with an elderly husband-and-wife team behind the counters. It’s said to do a great bitoque, but it’s not often you see quail on the menu  – especially not somewhere relaxed like this. I received two grilled quails with potato chips and change from €10. The bitoque is also very good though!

Where: Alfama
Address: R. Jardim do Tabaco 18 20, 1100-081 Lisboa
What to order: bitoque (thin steak with egg)

Maça Verde

If you’re catching an afternoon train to Porto, make Maça Verde your lunch stop. This snack bar apparently evolved into a proper restaurant in the late 90s and now it’s a favourite address for traditional Portuguese food.

Where: Santa Apolonia
Address: R. Caminhos de Ferro 1100, 1100-486 Lisboa
What to order: daily specials

Beira Gare

This snack bar just across the road from Lisbon’s central Rossio Station has been keeping Lisboetas happy since 1890. While you can order meals, come here for the bifanas (pork sandwich), which are best enjoyed elbows up at the counter, sandwiched (see what I did there) in between locals and tourists. You’ll see a giant pan in the front window where they stew the pork steaks with garlic, olive oil and decades worth of baked-in flavour. 

Where: Rossio
Address: Praça Dom João da Câmara 4, 1200-090 Lisboa
What to order: bifana or fried snacks

Cantina das Freiras

Feel like a smug local when you climb the stairs of an unsuspecting inner-city building to find this lunchtime canteen. This isn’t quite a tasca, but it’s cheap and too good to skip. Grab a tray and slide along to choose from the traditional Portuguese fish, meat or vegetarian dish of the day and take your meal to the rooftop terrace to dine with views over the river.

Where: Chiado
Address: Tv. Ferragial 1, 1200-184
What to order: Each day the daily meals change, expect to pay around €6. Amazingly they update the daily menu on their website each week.

Tendinha Do Rossio

Open since 1840, Tendinha is a slice of history on the doorstep of Lisbon’s Rossio Square. But from the outside it’s not so obvious – the large terrace tables are covered in marketing with pictures of the snacks and prices of everything you might like to eat. I say close your eyes on the way in and soak up the vintage interiors of the small space. Here you’ll eat the best pastel de bacalhau, a codfish potato croquette, in the city.

Where: Baixa 
Address: Praça Dom Pedro IV 6, 1100-200 Lisboa
What to order: pastel de bacalhau

Esquina da Fé

One of my favourite things about my next three suggestions is the location. Just a block back from Lisbon’s fanciest streets, where you’ll find boutiques for Prada, Gucci, and other luxury goods, you’ll find a normal Lisbon neighbourhood with fantastic tascas and cheap-and-cheerful dining options. I’m seeing it change rapidly, with construction and hotels going up, but if you can pop by “Faith Corner” then I highly suggest you do. Inside it’s very old school, with a changing traditional menu based mostly on northern cuisine from the Minho and Trás-os-Montes regions. Everything is made in house, including the desserts, and the prices are still favourable.

Where: Avenida da Liberdade
Adress: Rua da Fé 60, 1150-151 Lisboa
What to order: the dish of the day

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O Cartaxinho

No one could argue that this is not a true tasca – a place run by a husband-and-wife team who serve regional Minho dishes, only making some specials on certain days of the week. For the past 30 or so years Maria Júlia Cabral and her husband have been serving locals cozido (Portuguese boiled stew), cabidela (chicken blood rice), and more.

Where: Avenida da Liberdade
Address: R. de Santa Marta 20B, 1150-295 Lisboa
What to order: the daily special or bacalhau á bras 

Forninho Saloio

I recall reading a newspaper that said a tasca only open 40s years a young spot, and so Forninho Saloio is a spring chicken open only since 1995. While the prices are a little higher that what most locals would call a tasca, this is very much a traditional dining room serving top traditional Portuguese cuisine. The grill is fantastic, the daily specials are great, and the desserts are homemade. I loved the pernil do porco (pork knuckle) I had last time with very slow roasted potatoes.

Where: Avenida da Liberdade
Address: Travessa Parreiras 39, 1150-250 Lisboa
What to order: pratos do dia offer slightly better value than the menu.

Príncipe do Calhariz

Not many taverns are open on Sundays, let alone Sunday nights, which is why Príncipe do Calhariz is a bit special. The other reason it makes this list is the size. While it’s a popular spot, this big tunnel space has stacks of tables, making it easy enough to squeeze in or wait for a table. The food is usually good, the staff are super lovely, and the vibes and location are great.

Where: Chiado
Address: Calçada do Combro 28, 1200-012 Lisboa
What to order: steak or anything off the grill 

West Lisbon tascas: Santos, Alcântara, Campo de Ourique, Ajuda, Belém

O Tachadas

At the front of this tiny tasca, the grill chef’s eyes barely stray from whatever telenovela or old movie is on the TV as he flips steaks, squid and pork chops over the coals. Besides a curt greeting, the most you’ll hear from him is the loud thump as he cleaves huge chunks of steak on demand.  This small old-school tasca is the spot I return to again and again and again for the giant T-bone steak that comes the size of your (rather large) plate.

Where: Santos
Address: Rua da Esperança 178, 1200-808 Lisboa
What to order: Costeleta de novilho (steak), bacalhau à brás (salted cod)

Imperial de Campo de Ourique

Senhor João is one of Lisbon’s greatest characters. He has such an enthusiasm for the restaurant and the food from the Minho region that his wife, dona Adelaide, cooks up. You can’t help but be swept up in his genuine joy. As for the food, you’ll probably smell it wafting out the door before you even see the place, and the flavours live up to the hype generated by your nose. 

Where: Campo de Ourique
Address: R. Correia Teles 67, 1350-095 Lisboa
What to order: chanfana (goat stew), bacalhau à minhota

Jorge d’Amália

If you’ve had enough of tascas filled with red Benfica and green Sporting memorabilia, Jorge d’Amália will be a refreshing change. Here you’ll find a quite simply overwhelming number of jerseys, scarves, flags and other paraphernalia associated with the local side, Os Belenenses. More importantly, you’ll find a pica pau full of juicy tender steak and a generous dose of vinagery pickled veg, and one of the city’s best bitoques (steak with egg and gravy).

Where: Ajuda
Address: Calçada da Memória 20, 1300-396 Lisboa
What to order: bitoque (steak with egg), pica pau (chopped steak with pickles)

O Lutador

I come to O Lutador loads because it’s my local, but I’d suggest anyone looking for great petiscos (tapas) to drop by. There’s a massive terrace to enjoy a bifana and imperial (that’s a pork sandwich and baby beer) in the fading sun, or plates of tiny snails, pica-pau and beer in summer.

Where: Alcântara
Address: R. da Junqueira 1C, 1300-383 Lisboa
What to order: Pica pau (chopped steak with pickles) with hot chips, octopus salad, bifana (pork steak sandwich) 

Linha 27

The best tascas are like stepping into a timewarp – and are often only open for lunch. This local hidey hole in Alcântara is my time machine, packed with local workers every weekday. You can’t go wrong with a bitoque at almost any tasca, but this one is particularly good. Or why not opt for the “usual” order of the regular sat next to us – she asked for horse mackerel with Spanish sauce and a half-litre of house white wine. Linha 27 has been open since 1981 and updates the menu on its Facebook page.

Where: Alcântara
Address: Tv. do Conde da Ponte 3, 1300-141 Lisboa
What to order: pork cheeks with slow-roasted potatoes

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50 Maravilhas

A homely spot that verges into restaurant territory, o Maravilhas – or 50 Maravilhas – is a local favourite where you can enjoy high-quality meals or share a “dose” for two for around €15. 

Where: Alcântara
Address: R. Gilberto Rola 20, 1350-155 Lisboa
What to order: arroz do polvo (octopus rice), carne de porco á Alentejana (pork with clams)

Zapata

For no-frills, big-variety Portuguese food, Zapata is a great spot. I take out-of-town friends here as they have a massive range of top-notch Portuguese cuisine including a great bacalhau á Brás. Plus tiles, lots of tiles.

Where: São Bento
Address: R. do Poço dos Negros 47, 1200-335 Lisboa
What to order: grilled fish, steak, seafood rice, bacalhau (salted cod)

O Cantinho do Alfredo

The chalkboard out front scrawled with the day’s specials is almost illegible, a great sign. This tiny vintage dining room – with worn concrete tile floors and wooden tables – is a timewarp. Every lunch it is packed with workers enjoying meals for €5-6 and lunch with drinks and dessert giving change for €10. Anelderly man named Albino (not Alfredo) is in charge, and while the food is mostly simple – everything is still made in house, including the desserts.

Where: Campolide
Address: Rua General Taborda 44, Campolide, Lisboa, Portugal 1070-140
What to order: anything from the blackboard of specials, with prices around €6 for mains. Go on Thursdays for cozido (boiled meat stew) 

Tasca do Gordo

Think backyard barbecue but someone else is doing all the work. All you have to do is choose which animal to eat and whether you’ll be soothing your watering mouth with a grain- or grape-based beverage while nose fills with the smell of the churrasco. Tasca do Gordo is a gem in Belem with a massive backyard where the kids can run wild while you tuck into espetadas and plates of beans. It’s that simple.

Where: Belém
Address: R. dos Cordoeiros a Pedrouços 33, 1400-071 Lisboa
What to order: espetadas (meat skewers)

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North Lisbon tascas: Alvalade, Lumiar, Benfica, Campolide

Tasquinha do Lagarto

Open since 1973, this tasca started as a café and snack bar with games tables and has since become one of Lisbon’s best addresses. The first thing you’ll notice in Tasquinha do Largato is the sports paraphernalia lining every wall, particularly that of Lisbon’s football team Sporting. Inside the menu is short but well priced. I’ve tried almost all of it and every visit the food has been fantastic. 

Where: Campolide
Address: R. de Campolide 258, Lisboa
What to order: atum cebolada (tuna and onions), polvo á lagaeiro (baked octopus with potatoes)

Adega Solar Minhoto

Bitoque. It’s a Lisbon dish – basically a thin steak topped with a fried egg and served with chips. I’ve seen plenty of Lisboetas and Portuguese chefs name this Alvalade tasca as the top spot for a bitoque, so of course we tried it (and it’s great). This is one of the best tascas in Lisbon. It squeezes 45 people in and has almost as many dishes to choose from, so you don’t have to order a steak — but you should. Go early, no reservations.

Where: Alvalade
Address: Av. Rio de Janeiro 29F, 1700-111 Lisboa
What to order: bitoque

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Pirilampo

Whether it’s true or not, I personally consider Alvalade to be the most Portuguese city suburb of Lisbon. It’s a little bit out of the centre, but it has a supremely cosmopolitan feeling with a busy main street. I think its location means the expat crowd and tourists haven’t infiltrated the neighbourhood (yet). Everything in this area is for the locals, and this tasca – Pirilampo – is just off the main street is a classic that’s hit the mark on both visits.

Where: Alvalade
Address: R. Acácio de Paiva 4, 1700-005 Lisboa
What to order: anything, but I recall feeling particularly fond of the choco frito (fried cuttlefish)

Cantina do Mercado

Attached to Lisbon’s best fresh produce markethall – Mercado 31 de Janeiro – is Cantina, a relaxed lunchtime fish grill. Here you’ll choose from grilled market fish or meat, served simply. Go early as it gets busy with office workers from nearby buildings. 

Where: Saldanha, Mercado 31 de Janeiro
What to order: fish

Jaguar

When I eat out I’m often looking to try something new or different, and at Jaguar I finally got to try maranhos, which is a type of sausage from central Portugal made with rice, meat and mint inside. Strange? Yes, but I loved it. You’ll find this classic tasca close to the beautiful Jardim Gulbenkian. Inside the dining room is a timewarp to the 70s, outside is a large terrace in the shade.

Where: São Sebastião
Address: Av. Conde Valbom 87, 1050-067 Lisboa
What to order: maranhos if they have it

Adega das Gravatas

Many would argue Adega das Gravatas is a traditional Portugues restaurante not a tasca. But I’m not here to fight, just to tell you about good place to eat good food – and this is one of them. Here you’ll want to order the polvo á lagareiro as the portion is generous. Meat lovers will enjoy the naco na pedra (steak cooked on a hot stone at your table).

Where: Carnide
Address: Tv. Pregoeiro 15, 1600-588 Lisboa
What to order: polvo á lagareiro (octopus and potatoes), naco na pedra (steak)

Lisbon’s next-generation wave of modern tascas

O Velho Eurico

The first time I visited O Velho Eurico it was a killer, old-school tasca with some of the best polvo á lagareiro (olive oil octopus) and bacalhau no forno (baked salted cod) in the city, and one of those plate-dwarfing steaks that are becoming increasingly rare. When the owner retired, a young chef called Zé Paulo Rocha took over and flipped it into a menu of traditional petiscos (small plates like tapas), elevated just the tiniest bit while keeping the old soul of the place. A hand-written chalkboard details what’s on offer each day.

Where: Castelo
Address: Largo São Cristóvão nº3, 1100-179 Lisboa
What to order: Lamb croquettes, arroz de pato, chambao, 

Taberna Sal Grosso

Bring a group and order one of everything on the menu. A big black chalkboard dictates the dishes of the moment – usually small and medium-sized plates with everything from tuna pica pau to fried quail and sweet ribs. The food has a distinctively Portuguese root, but it’s more influenced by the world than other modern taverns in Lisbon.

Where: Alfama
Address: Calçada do Forte 22, 1100-256 Lisboa
What to order: chicken with leitão (peppery gravy) sauce, tuna pica-pau (seared tuna with pickles)

Cacué

I wasn’t sure where to place this gem, which stays true to traditional Portuguese cooking but in a beautiful space with great care. The prices are higher at Cacué than your lunchtime canteen tasca, but it’s a top spot to try the best version of traditional dishes, with no twists or turns. See also Suzana, another dining gem cut from the same cloth.

Where: Saldanha
Address: R. Tomás Ribeiro 93 C, 1050-227 Lisboa
What to order: cabidela, bacalhau á Brás

Tasca Baldracca

Tasca Baldracca is perhaps the most daring of the new wave spots on this list, mixing Portuguese flavours with more international influences. For example, the scotch egg with mortadela (Portuguese blood sausage) is fantastic, and I adore the steak tartare. 

Where: Castelo
Address: R. das Farinhas 1, 1100-177 Lisboa
What to order: you can’t really go wrong here

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Petisco Saloio

While some spots blow up in international media (here’s looking at you, Velho Eurico), others continue to fly under the radar. Petisco is Portugal’s equivalent of tapas, and I’m a huge fan of this spot, which serves up slightly refined traditional small plates. Call ahead to book a table on the terrace – Petisco Saloio is a tiny space and popular with locals.

Where: Campo Pequeno
Adress: Av. Barbosa du Bocage 38, 1000-072 Lisboa
What to order: you can’t really go wrong here

A Obra

This little restaurant on Lisbon’s “Green Street” was a recently surprise. From the small kitchen A Obra serves a modern Portuguese menu to tables on the leafy street. Very charming, very delicious. It seems like the menu changes a lot but I loved the octopus rice, the asparagus and the prawn sandwich. 

Where: São Bento/Santos
Address: R. da Silva 21, 1200-446 Lisboa
What to order: seafood

Maps of my favourite tascas in Lisbon

That’s my list of what I think are the best tascas in Lisbon. I’m always visiting new spots and adding to my list – add your suggestions in the comments!

Keep reading….

• Where to find the best Portuguese street food and snacks in Lisbon
• The best pastel de nata cooking classes in Lisbon and Porto
• The Best Food Tours & Experiences in Lisbon
• Lisbon restaurants open Sunday and Monday
• Local’s guide to the LX Factory, Lisbon’s creative micro neighbourhood
• Best places to eat octopus in Lisbon

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